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[Feature] Brewing Museum Toko Brewery! 400 year old sake brewery

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Yamagata Prefecture is well known for its sake. Yonezawa City, which spreads out at the foot of the Azuma mountain range, is rich in nature and is a region where rice cultivation has flourished.

This is where you’ll find the shop Kojima Sohonten, a sake brewery that has been producing sake since the Azuchi-Momoyama period.

Founded as a sake brewery in 1597, we visited the Brewing Museum Toko Brewery where you can experience that long history.

1. Brewing sake in harmony with nature

Their representative brand is Toko, named after the sake from the east side of Yonezawa Castle, where the morning sun rises.

The rich natural environment of Yamagata and the high level of brewing techniques produce a wide variety of sake, which are highly regarded not only in Japan but also overseas.

“Toko Junmai Daiginjo Fukuro-Tsuri Juhachi” won first place in the Junmai Daiginjo category at the International Wine Challenge (IWC) 2024, one of the world’s largest wine and sake competitions!

It’s a popular drink right now.

*Quoted from Toko’s official website


*Quoted from Toko’s official website

All sake sold at Kojima Souhonten shop is pure rice sake with no added brewing alcohol. “Toko” is a masterpiece brewed by our own brewers who have been dedicated to sake brewing.

The 24th generation head brewer is particularly focused on brewing sake in harmony with nature. Global climate change is also a major issue when it comes to brewing sake.

We do not discard sake lees or rice bran, but make full use of it.

With the cooperation of a biomass power plant in the same area, they mixed cow manure with sake lees to produce methane gas to generate electricity, essentially eliminating carbon dioxide emissions during brewing.

As a long-established sake brewery, we have a strong focus on the future and approach sake brewing with that in mind.

2. Toko Brewery

Toko Brewery was remodeled from a sake brewery that had been producing sake until 1983, and opened the following year, allowing visitors to experience a traditional sake brewery firsthand.

Since then, it has been renovated from time to time until it is what it is today. With a building measuring 500 tsubo (1,650 m2) on a site of 4,000 tsubo (1,200 m2), it is one of the largest sake brewing museums in the Tohoku region.

There is a sugidama (a ball of cedar) on the eaves.
The stately appearance also heightens expectations.

The reception area is also charming. After paying the admission fee, we went inside.

・The appearance of a merchant's house

When you open the sliding door, the first thing that catches your eye is a restored merchant’s residence.

The history of the Kojima Sononten shop is introduced here.

The daifukucho (register) conveys the long history of the shop.

The living area uses old timber as is.
This precious building was restored by 34 Hida artisans using the “wedge” construction method, which does not require bolts.

From the large opening you can see the courtyard, which changes colour with each season.

The Kojima family has been taught for generations not to live extravagantly, and as such has been forbidden to plant pine trees, which are considered a symbol of wealth.

At the entrance to the brewery is a large jar (height 106.2cm, diameter 80cm) that was used from the end of the Muromachi period to the Momoyama period.

The large ko-bizen ware jar was transported to Sakata Port on the Kitamae ship trade and then traveled up the Mogami River to this sake brewery.

Upon appraisal, it was determined that the kiln mark indicated that it was made by Magobei in 1585.

It is amazing to see that jars made over 400 years ago still exist. Two hundred 1.8L bottles were made and stored in the castle.

・One of the largest breweries in the Tohoku region

We head to the brewery, which retains its original form from the Taisho era.
You will be greeted by large barrels that were used to brew sake back then.

The brewery is a renovated earthen storehouse where sake was actually brewed. What particularly catches your eye are the many large barrels lined up in an orderly fashion.
You will be overwhelmed by its quiet power.

The air inside the storehouse is cool and quite different from the temperature outside.

The wooden barrel was made about 110 years ago.
The thing that brewers feared most when brewing sake was spoilage.

If fire-off bacteria gets into the wooden barrels, the mash will spoil and the sake in the entire brewery may be ruined.

It was said that even the wealthiest sake breweries would go bankrupt if the sake continued to spoil for two years.

To protect the barrels from spoilage, they were painted with persimmon tannins, a natural preservative.
It is said that in the past, sake breweries had their own barrel makers.

Our guide was the proprietress, Junko Kojima. You can tell the size of the barrels by the difference in their heights.

As soon as you enter the brewery, there is an explanatory board explaining the process of making sake.

Following this order, you can observe the sake brewing process and see the antique tools used.

This sake is made from 100% home-polished sake rice grown in a natural environment with large temperature differences, brewed with water that has permeated through a thick layer of earth, and fermented for a long period at low temperature in clean air.

Nowadays, we make full use of machines, but our passion for sake brewing remains the same.

“Sake from snowy regions is very delicate. Snow absorbs and sinks airborne particles, making the air clearer, and the snow surrounding the brewery makes it possible to maintain a constant low temperature.

It’s like a natural refrigerator,” says Kojima.

In the permanent theater, you can learn about the history of the Kojima Sohonten shop and the sake brewing process.

・Main building of the sake brewery

After observing the preparation, you can take a break in the free space.

A Taisho-era building with high ceilings and a surprisingly open feel.

This is the area where the family lived, and the tatami rooms and other facilities have been recreated. It feels like you’ve traveled back in time.

You can drink the underground water that flows from the Azuma mountain range.

A German-type pump purchased around 1918 is also on display.

3. Shop

To the attached shop.

The store also sells alcohol that can only be purchased here, as well as cosmetic products that contain alcohol.

There is also a paid tasting corner with a wide selection of drinks.

(From the left in the photo) “Junmai Ginjo Genshu Tokou,” “Kenjoshu” from a purveyor of sake that can only be purchased here, and “Ginjo Umeshu” based on kasutori shochu, a liquor made by distilling sake lees.

This plum wine with an elegant flavor won first place at a national plum wine competition.

(From the left in the photo) “Toko Junmai Daiginjo Aigamo Robot Farming Method” uses sake rice grown without the use of pesticides, and “Toko with green” is made using energy from sake lees.

Toko Azuchi-Momoyama was born from a return to the original “jar brewing” method used at the time the brewery was founded.

Non-alcoholic and additive-free, amazake helps support your daily energy. (All types 432 yen)

I also recommend trying the non-alcoholic “Sake Kasu Gelato” (400 yen)!

(From the left in the photo) The perfect souvenir! Skin cream “Snow Goddess” (100g 2,530 yen),

Facial mask (3 sheets for 1,485 yen)

4. Message

A long-established sake brewery with over 400 years of history that continues to evolve to meet the needs of the times.

On the day I visited, there were tourists from overseas enjoying sake tasting.

I received a message from Kojima-san.

“Our facility introduces everything about sake breweries in Snow Country. We hope you will come and experience the history while enjoying your drink.”

5. Basic information

Opening hours
9:00~16:30

Admission fee

・Adults: 350 yen
・Junior and high school students: 250 yen
・Elementary school students: 150 yen
*50 yen discount for groups of 20 or more
*Fee includes taxes
*You can also just shop without visiting (separate entrance)

Closed

December 31 to January 2
*Closed every Tuesday during the winter season from January to March

Detailed information

Brewing Museum Toko Brewery

Brewing Museum Toko Brewery

Inquiry
〒992-0031
2-3-22 Omachi, Yonezawa City, Yamagata Prefecture

0238-21-66010238-21-6601

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