1. Chanson Monogatari

A semi-basement coffee shop where you can enjoy some solitude while listening to chanson

Chanson Monogatari was founded in 1984 and is located a two-minute walk from Yamagata City Hall.

The neon signs, which are rarely seen these days, are impressive.

From the white-toned entrance of the shop, you walk down a gentle staircase.

The path leading to the semi-basement is dimly lit, and I proceed with excitement, wondering what kind of space lies ahead.

When you enter the store, your heart will dance in excitement at the space filled with carefully selected interior items.

The owner has dreamed of going to a Parisian café since he was 18 years old, and the antique furniture and interior goods that line the store were all selected by him.

What’s even more surprising is that he even designed the interior and gave instructions for the arched ceiling.

He still loves architecture and reads magazines related to renovation and remodeling.

Every time you see the etched glass* that looks like a painting, you feel an air of elegance.
*Etched glass: Glass with engraved finish that creates a three-dimensional effect

There are 43 seats.

Each seat offers a different perspective as you enjoy the miscellaneous goods and paintings in the store.

The owner started the shop when he was 34 years old.

While searching for a property to run a café in Nanokamachi, they came across this semi-basement property.

The deciding factor was the outside light streaming into the seat at the very back.

When he saw the scene, he said with a smile, “It was like an attic in Paris.”

The outdoor stairs leading to the entrance have a gentle slope, so it seems to attract many elderly customers.

I would love for everyone to see the cute retro telephone at the back of the store.

This is actually a public phone that was used in the store.

When a call comes in, two bells that look like eyes ring, and when you want to put a call on hold, you turn the handle on the right side to play a hold tone.

We were able to see it being played right in front of us and hear the beautiful sound it produces.

It seems that you can’t currently use the phone, but the overwhelming visual presence is sure to catch your eye.

✤ Menu

Food and drink menu (as of mid-May 2023)

I had the popular menu item, a float.

Coffee of the day (left), iced coffee float (center), and coffee of the day (right)

It seems that you can make a float out of any cold drink menu, such as iced coffee or iced tea, for an additional 220 yen.

The glasses are especially cute.
These are the glasses they’ve been using since they first opened.

The coffee here is freshly roasted, ground and brewed.
The coffee of the day changes every day, with Kilimanjaro beans on Mondays, Colombian beans on Tuesdays, etc.
The coffee beans are sourced locally, selected by the owner, and then roasted in-house.

The cup and saucer that came with the daily coffee we received this time was from Royal Albert, which is said to be “the most British royal tableware.”
It has a lovely, elegant and glamorous atmosphere.

The daily coffee comes in Arabia cups and saucers.
It has a cute Nordic feel to it.

This time, we also had chocolate waffles and strawberry waffles, which are popular among our younger customers.

Chocolate waffle (left), strawberry waffle (right)

The waffles spread out on the plate are decorated with chocolate and fruit, and are so beautiful that you’ll want to take a photo.

The owner said that he feels happy when customers’ faces light up and he says, “Wow!!!” when he serves them the food, or when they tell him, “It was delicious” as they leave.

✤ Message

The owner has given us a message for all visitors to VISIT YAMAGATA.

“The name of the store, ‘Chanson Monogatari’, was chosen so that people would know that it has a French motif.

We hope you will enjoy your time alone, reading a magazine, or just relaxing while listening to the chanson played in the store.”

2. Hakujuji

A local coffee shop bustling with regulars and loved by people of all ages

A retro Showa-era coffee shop located a 5-minute walk from Bunshokan (the old prefectural office), a landmark of Yamagata City.

This is a famous restaurant in Yamagata City run by 94-year-old owner Keiko Yamazaki and her daughter Hiromi Watanabe.

When you enter the store, you’ll notice posters hanging on the cream-colored wallpaper and cute lights hanging from the ceiling.

Apparently Hiromi replaced the wallpaper when the store was renovated.

By the way, “Nanokamachi” is said to be the center of Yamagata City, but the official name of the town is “Nanukamachi,” not “Nanokamachi.”

In everyday conversation, it is called “nanokamachi,” so either pronunciation will work.

The restaurant has a counter and table seating for four people.

The luxurious deep red sofa and marble-like table were lovely.

You can enjoy it alone or with friends.

This time, we had the opportunity to interview the owner, Keiko.

Keiko opened a book in which her shop was featured and said,

“The store opened in 1973.

Originally, when my husband was working in Manchuria, he often went to a coffee shop called Hakujuji, and it seemed to him that the shop was so attractive that he decided to open a shop called Hakujuji when he returned to his hometown.

He talked about the background and thoughts behind the founding of the company.

✤ Menu

The drinks menu had a wide variety of coffees, including blends, American, mocha, and Brazilian.

The most popular item is apparently blended coffee.

blend

It had a deep flavor and was mellow, and even after it cooled down a little it still had a refreshing aroma.

For weekday-only lunch, steak bowl (only available on Wednesdays) and Neapolitan are popular, and the steak bowl sometimes sells out after 12 o’clock.

Steak bowl

Neapolitan set

There are apparently many regular customers, and during the interview we were able to catch a glimpse of the warm and frank atmosphere between the regulars and Keiko, as if they were having tea and chatting with friends at home.

Actually, I visited Hakujuji for the first time at the end of last year, and I remember being very comfortable with the friendly conversations and atmosphere between Keiko and her daughter, and the regular customers.

Hakujuji also sells coffee beans.
There were lots of coffees lined up on the shelves next to the entrance.

When purchasing coffee beans, we were told, “It would be helpful if you could avoid buying them during the busy lunch hours.”

✤ Message

Keiko has sent a message to all viewers of VISIT YAMAGATA.

“Customers often tell us it feels comfortable and homely.

We want first-time customers to feel at ease in our store.”

3. Jazz Cafe OCTET

How about enjoying a drink while listening to jazz? A bar run by a jazz lover

A jazz cafe founded in 1971, located a two-minute walk from the east exit of Yamagata Station.

A sophisticated appearance emerges as you turn down an alleyway from the main street.

When you enter the store, you’ll see records lined up on the walls.

The owner’s record collection is an astounding 10,000 pieces.

I can feel the love for jazz so much that it makes me sigh.

The restaurant has 8 counter seats and 18 table seats.

You can spend a relaxing time under the gentle lighting that is not too bright.

When the jazz that was playing when you entered the store ends, the next record is placed on the turntable.

The moment you place the needle on the record, sound begins to play through the speakers.

It was refreshing to see something like this, as I rarely have the chance to see it that way.

There is a sign above the piano that says “Play now,” and you can place the record jacket of the record you are currently listening to on it.

The owner, Mr. Aizawa, took time out of his work to teach us about jazz, saying things like, “Jazz became popular in Japan after the war and became part of Japanese culture.”

Aizawa became obsessed with jazz after coming across a jazz cafe in Yurakucho, Tokyo.
He then began listening to jazz on the radio more frequently and started collecting records himself.

✤ Menu

Here is the drink and food menu.

I was feeling hungry so I ordered a pizza toast set that came with a coffee.

Pizza toast set

Adult’s pizza toast is made with thick slices of bread and is slightly spicy.

The bitterness of the bell peppers added an accent and went perfectly with the cheese.

There is also a wide variety of Western liquor lined up on the counter.

There are also Western liquors shaped like musical instruments, and if you look closely you can see the word “OCTET” on the label.

Apparently it was a gift from friends and customers.

Since I was there, I also had an Old beer with soda.

Listening to jazz while drinking makes me feel like a cool adult.

The store name OCTET means “octet.”

Apparently, the name came from the fact that the shop was created by the owner and seven of his fellow jazz musicians when it was first opened.

As a nice touch, all of the wall clocks leaning against the wall in the store are set to 8 o’clock.

The posters and photographs on display convey the friendly atmosphere and history of the shop.

When we interviewed a regular customer at the store, we asked him what he liked about the store.

She replied, “The smiling owner is lovely.”

✤ Message

The owner, Mr. Aizawa, has given us a message for all viewers of VISIT YAMAGATA.

“Jazz is deep, but simple.

Please feel free to come to the store and ask any questions you may have.”